Escalante to Boulder on Route 12

August 17

Sunrise at Slot Canyons Inn

Click here for today's pics.

Our plan for today had been to exercise our new canyoneering skills by hiking Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Canyons (Gulches?). Jim at EE had loaned us a coil of rope (just in case) and had given us good instructions. So we got up early to beat the heat and the t-storms, and Joette Marie Rex nicely set out an early b-fast for us.

The forecast was fine, but the actuality looked pretty grim. There were dark storm clouds in multiple directions. So, to everyone's disappointment, we decided to cancel for fear of flash floods. The guys at EE supported that decision when we returned the rope. This is yet another example of my (Scott's) new found maturity. Karen called it a 'no-brainer'. But still.

We went down Hole in the Rock Road anyway. We wanted to see the dinosaur tracks evident at one spot. The lightening show on the way was awesome.  The ability to see for miles (and miles and miles) in many directions enables improved weather watching.  

We never would have found the dinosaur tracks without Jim's instructions. (15 mi down HITR, r onto Collet Top Rd, unmarked r to get to yellow submarine rock (my name) 2nd pullout.)  Even with them we had to use a lucky guess plus someone's hand written instructions in a trail registry box.

We climbed a bit on Submarine Rock first, then drove a little further to the dino track spot. We weren't being rained on but there was lightening in other areas nearby. That made it both more exciting (Scott and kids) and a little frightening (Karen).  Karen's note: I don't know why I'd be nervous about lightening striking all over the area when we were the tallest thing around the desert plateau!

After ten mins of searching we found the dino tracks. They were slightly raised above the surface of the rock. Maybe the material was compressed by the dinos and so has eroded slower?. The tracks were large, greater than a foot in diameter. They were set in a clear walking pattern. Very cool. Then we scrambled back to the jeep quickly feeling exposed to lightening up on the shelf.

We returned to the paved road and headed east on route 12 to Boulder, UT, 28 miles, population 250. Aimee at EE insisted we couldn't come this far without driving that stretch of road. Jim (I think) asserted it's the most scenic drive in canyon country if not the whole US.

It did not disappoint. After not long, the road climbed to a high elevation with sweeping views in all directions of striking sandstone formations, canyons, a cottonwood filled river valley, and mountains. It was awesome for miles.

One stretch was particularly precarious with sharp drops on both sides. The high school in Escalante is regional and the kids from Boulder take the bus along this route daily. The innkeeper's daughter is a senior in a class of 14(!). Her brother was in a large class of 22.

We found the Kiva Coffeehouse wedged into a canyon wall at an amazing pinnacle. The food and beverage offerings were great, and the room was all windows (plus outdoor patio) offering a stunning view. There are also one or two associated rooms in a little sidehouse below which must be booked well in advance.

There was hardly anything in Boulder itself. Though, like the other towns we've been through (except Bryce), the tourists sustain a couple of great places to eat. As recommended, we ate at the Burr Trail Grill. Fried green tomatoes, polenta, burgers with all kinds of spicy high end ingredients. That reminds me, Joette Marie at the Inn put out (homemade?) prickly pear cactus jelly with breakfast. Good!

For our drive back to Escalante, we took the top off the jeep (the kids love that) and dared the rain to soak us.  The crazy gain and loss of elevation on this drive caused us to be able to go 6 minutes without Karen having to press the gas (then another time 4 minutes).  The kids helped the last minute or so urging the car forward with their bodies.  Or at least they thought. 

Brady and Callie both loved having some time back at the inn to explore and play with the friendly kittens (which they'd given names to: Papa, Stripe, Snowy and Strip.  Can only assume that last one is a nod to our next stop in Vegas.)  It was like a scene out of a movie when we drove in to see their 3 horses (one blonde, one brown, one black) galloping across the field.

In addition to the food, the community atmosphere at dinner back at the Inn was great.  The dining room (it was raining) had several groups in it sharing their local and past traveling experiences and stories.  We liked the B&B scene.  The kids (the only ones at the inn) were cute sharing stories with the group.

We found that if you're going to go somewhere a little less mainstream like Kanab or Escalante, there's a side benefit to doing a tour on the first day, which is you get tips on where (and what) to eat, and what else to see in the area, which can really enhance your visit.

Funny Story

Try as they might, our Innkeepers (and small-time ranchers) can't seem to keep the cows on the property.  There's one steer in particular who seems to be the renegade, and finds his way out, leading others.  When we left in the morning, we weren't surprised to see a few cattle loose on the road, as we've run into that before, but we were surprised to see the owner's son herding them back to the property via his pickup truck!

Storm from Boulder